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January 13, 2010

Farm-fresh food goes upscale

By Mary Therese Biebel mbiebel@timesleader.com
Features Writer
Mary Therese Biebel on Facebook   |   @TLTLMaryTBiebel on Twitter

As a youth helping out at his grandfather’s farm in New Jersey, Darryl Harmon learned to appreciate fresh tomatoes, asparagus, squash and yams.

As executive chef at the Water Works Restaurant in Philadelphia, Harmon, 32, still loves fresh vegetables, but today he favors some grown slightly to the west of New Jersey – right here in Pennsylvania.

“Just for the freshness and quality and to support the farmers out there because they’re working very hard,” Harmon said, it’s a good idea to buy local produce.

Coincidentally, that’s the idea behind the “Pennsylvania Preferred” cooking demonstrations at this week’s Pennsylvania Farm Show in Harrisburg, where Harmon recently showed observers how to prepare Grilled Pennsylvania Organic Veal Rib Chops and Wild Mushroom Risotto.

Both recipes involve a variety of mushrooms, which Harmon likes to buy in Kennett Square and serve at the Water Works. The upscale restaurant is located in what was once Philadelphia’s municipal water source along the Schuylkill River.

The Water Works Restaurant offers American and Mediterranean cuisine, and its signature dishes include leg of lamb and octopus.

For the latter dish, Harmon said, he’ll sometimes send a sample to convince a hesitant diner and, usually, the person will enjoy it so much he’ll order a full serving.

If you would like a serving of Harmon’s celebrate-Pennsylvania-mushroom dishes, we’re publishing two of his recipes today.

WILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO

3 ounces oyster mushrooms

3 ounces shiitake mushrooms

3 ounces crimini mushrooms

1 tablespoon peeled garlic

1 tablespoon peeled shallots

3 ounces baby peas

16 ounces chicken stock

8 ounces heavy cream

3 ounces Parmigiano reggiano, shaved

12 ounces arborio rice, pan cooked with onions, thyme and chicken stock

1 ounce extra virgin olive oil

Directions: Heat a medium saut� pan. Coat pan with extra virgin olive oil. Saute mushrooms, shallots and garlic until translucent. Add rice and stir ingredients together. Add chicken stock and heavy cream. Let reduce until rice is fully cooked. Add roasted peppers, baby peas and 2 ounces of shaved Parmigiano reggiano. Add salt and pepper to taste. Plate risotto in 3-inch ring molds. Garnish with micro greens.

GRILLED ORGANIC VEAL CHOPS

Six 16-ounce veal rib chops

2 springs fresh thyme

6 ounces extra virgin olive oil

2 ounces lemon juice

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 ounce fresh chives, chopped to 1-inch

2 ounces peeled shallots, finely chopped

2 ounces peeled garlic, finely chopped

2 tablespoons lemon zest

3 ounces royal trumpet mushrooms, quartered

3 ounces hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, quartered

3 ounces honshimeji mushrooms, stems removed

3 ounces chanterelle mushrooms, stems removed

salt and pepper, to taste.

4 ounces upland cress as garnish

For the veal: Marinate veal chops in 2 ounces extra virgin olive oil, thyme, 1 ounce of shallots, 1 ounce of garlic and lemon zest. Season the veal with salt and pepper. Grill meat to desired temperature. Let meat stand for 2 minutes

For the vinaigrette: Sautee mushrooms, 1 ounce of shallots and 1 ounce of garlic in olive oil until translucent. Season mushrooms with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

In a separate mixing bowl add 4 ounces of extra virgin olive oil, 2 ounces of fresh squeezed lemon juice, 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard and blend with whisk until emulsified. Add mushroom mixture and chives and mix well. Season the mixture with salt and pepper.

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