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Wednesday, October 23, 2002 Page: 1D
I think most women of my generation were born knowing how to cook a decent
pot roast. It was part of our genetic memory or we learned it watching our
mothers or grandmothers cook. Whatever. I always just used to throw a
pot-roast dinner together on cold, dreary Saturdays or Sundays when I was
around the house for most of the day. But a decade ago, when I started chefing
at lunch, I decided I had better consult a recipe so I could produce a
consistent pot roast every time it was featured. Out of the myriad pot-roast
recipes, it was just dumb luck I happened upon the one by Sue Kreitzman in her
book “Comfort Food,” 1986 (Harmony Books, New York). Over the years, I’ve
modified it somewhat, but the basic recipe routinely yields a delicious dish
that reminds everyone of childhood days on the farm, even if they grew up in
the middle of a city.
Make a pot roast from any cut of tough or gelatinous beef: chuck, rump or
brisket are the most common. A chuck roast is cut from the shoulder area of
the animal, is muscular and has lots of connective tissue, which means it is
flavorful and suited to long, slow cooking. The brisket is directly under the
shoulder and has good flavor but will never be truly tender. It is often used
for corned beef and pastrami. The rump is just that: it comes from the rear
end of the cow. Roasts cut from rump are called top or bottom round roasts and
are really lean, which means their flavor would benefit from the addition of
fat to the cooking pot.
The basic pot roasting technique is as follows. Begin by browning the roast
on all sides over medium-high heat, taking your time. Adjust the heat so the
meat browns but the fat does not burn. Then add seasoning, other flavoring
ingredients and vegetables, along with whatever liquid you’re using, and
simmer the roast until it is tender, usually for several hours. It is almost
impossible to overcook a pot roast, but it can be done. Simmer the roast until
it is tender, that is, until a fork can be easily inserted and removed from
the meat. Do not cook it until it falls apart. As with stews and soups, I
think pot roast is best prepared one day and then reheated to serve the next.
There are as many recipes for pot roast as there are cooks. You can
customize the one below by adding, subtracting or varying ingredients. For
example, substitute red or white wine for the brandy; substitute pureed
tomatoes for the stock; add thyme, bay or chili powder or a combination. I
frequently add potatoes. Par-cooked Great Northern beans would be an
interesting addition. If you do this, you must increase the liquid. I’ve seen
recipes that include a sweet liquid, such as canned fruit syrup, and a few
tablespoons of vinegar to create a sweet-and-sour flavor. I’ve also seen
recipes for pot roast in which the beef is marinated before it is cooked. This
further tenderizes and flavors the meat. There really is no wrong way to make
this homespun entree.
OLD-FASHIONED POT ROAST
Serves 6-8
1 first-cut brisket of beef (about 4 pounds), trimmed of all but a thin
layer of top fat or 1 chuck or rump roast of about the same weight
1 tablespoon butter
1 onion, halved and sliced into thin half moons
1/4 cup brandy
1/4 cup tomato paste
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/2 cup beef, vegetable or chicken stock
4 large garlic cloves, peeled and left whole
1 carrot peeled and sliced
1 stalk celery with leaves, sliced
3 sprigs parsley
8 whole carrots, peeled and trimmed
1. Preheat the oven to 350.
2. In a Dutch oven or any deep pan large enough to accommodate the roast
plus other ingredients, sear the brisket in its own fat, beginning fat side
down. When the meat is browned on both sides, remove it to a platter and
loosely cover it with foil.
3. Meanwhile, pour excess fat out of the skillet, but do not wipe out the
skillet. Melt the butter in the skillet. Saute the onion. When it is almost
tender, pour in the brandy. Boil, scraping the pan with a wooden spoon to
release all the browned bits. When the brandy has cooked away, stir in the
tomato paste. Season with a bit of salt and freshly ground pepper. Scrape the
mixture into a baking pan. Pour the stock over the onions.
4. Season the meat on both sides with salt and pepper. Place the meat, fat
side up, on the onion. Pour in any meat juices that have accumulated on the
platter. Tuck the garlic, carrot and celery slices and parsley around the
meat. Cover the baking pan tightly with heavy-duty aluminum foil.
5. Place the baking pan in the oven for an hour and a half. Reduce the oven
temperature to 250 degrees and bake for an additional hour.
6. Uncover the baking pan and test the roast for doneness. If a fork can be
inserted and removed easily, the meat is done. In that case, remove it to a
platter and proceed as follows without the roast. If the meat is still tough,
arrange the whole carrots around the brisket; salt and pepper them lightly and
re-cover. Return to the oven for another half hour or until the meat and
carrots are tender.
7. To serve, slice the meat against the grain and serve with the carrots
and gravy. If desired, the gravy may be pureed in a food processor or pushed
through a fine sieve. The meat slices may be refrigerated in the gravy and
reheated in a day or so. (They make wonderful sandwiches on rye bread). Serve
over buttered noodles or with kasha or mashed potatoes.
Food Columnist Pat Greenfield’s column is published every other Wednesday.
She is owner and/or operator of restaurants in Exeter, Kingston and Plains
Township. Write to her in care of the Arts & Leisure Team, Times Leader, 15 N.
Main St., Wilkes-Barre, PA 18711-0250.
