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Wednesday, August 18, 2004 Page: 1D
This time of year, simplicity is key. KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid) rules –
it’s too hot and humid to spend lengthy time in the kitchen or eat anything
elaborate. This is also the time of year when those of us lucky enough to have
a garden can just go pick a meal. Those of you who didn’t plant can visit a
farmer’s market or stand and pick out a meal – beans, corn, squash, peppers,
onions, dill, basil and tomatoes. The abundance is overwhelming. And there’s
nothing that signifies the summer harvest more than a big, plump, juicy red
tomato.
Pick the ripest you can find for this pasta salad – that’s the key. The
tomatoes you use must be perfectly ripe because there is very little else in
this salad. The flavor of the tomato must carry the dish. Also, a lot of pasta
salads turn out to be pretty boring because there is more pasta than other
ingredients. The proportion of tomatoes to pasta in this recipe is three to
one, making it tasty indeed.
When selecting tomatoes for this salad, choose large red ones, rather than
smaller or yellow tomatoes. The large size makes them quickest to work with,
and the red tomatoes have, I think, the most robust flavor. James Peterson, in
his book, “Vegetables,” advises that to avoid a soupy, watery salad, he
drains the tomatoes before tossing with the other ingredients. This procedure
is very quick and simple – just halve the tomatoes and squeeze out the seeds,
then chop the tomatoes and drain them in a colander for about half an hour.
You will note that there are only five ingredients in this salad, plus salt
and pepper: tomatoes, pasta, basil, vinegar and extra virgin olive oil. Try
the salad made exactly this way the first time you make it. Enjoy the
unsullied tomato flavor. Then if you must, add whatever you like: slivered
onions or scallions, chopped garlic, green beans, diced zucchini or other
squash, sweet or hot peppers. In order to keep cooking and prep time to a
minimum, while you are boiling the pasta, you can blanch green beans or
broccoli florets in a wire strainer suspended in the same pot. Then remove and
rinse them in cold water and they are ready to add to the finished salad.
TOMATO, BASIL AND PASTA SALAD
Serves 4-8
3 pounds ripe tomatoes (about 4 large)
1 tablespoon Kosher or sea salt
1 pound pasta, such as penne, bowties, oriechietti, rotini, elbow
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
About 30 large fresh basil leaves, washed and dried
3 tablespoons good-quality vinegar – balsamic or red wine
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1. Cut the tomatoes in half crosswise and squeeze out the seeds from each
half. Coarsely chop the tomatoes and toss with the tablespoon or Kosher salt.
Place them in a colander and drain for at least 1/2 an hour.
2. In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the pasta until it is al
dente, then drain in a colander.
3. In the meantime, place the olive oil, some salt and pepper into a large
pot. As soon as the pasta is cooked and drained and while it is still hot, add
it to the oil mixture and toss to coat. Let cool to room temperature.
4. Just before serving, add the drained tomatoes and the other ingredients.
Taste and adjust the seasonings.
Food columnist Pat Greenfield’s column appears every other Wednesday. She
is the operator of restaurants in Kingston and Plain Township. Write her in
care of the Times Leader, 15 N. Main St., Wilkes-Barre PA 18711.
