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Sweet-corn season is here and, unfortunately, it never lasts long. This always anticipated late-summer jewel tastes great on its own — aided, perhaps by a shake of salt and a pat of butter — but it also shines in soups, salads, side dishes and more.
MICHAEL ROBERTS’ CORN RISOTTO
Serves: 4.
Note: The late Michael Roberts was the influential chef at the former Trumps in West Hollywood, Calif., and later at Twin Palms in Pasadena, Calif., which he owned with actor/director Kevin Costner. From “Saveur Cooks Authentic American” by the editors of Saveur magazine (Chronicle Books, $24.95).
8 tbsp. (1 stick) butter, divided
3 c. (about 6 ears) fresh corn kernels
1 green onion, peeled and minced
1 c. chicken stock, divided
1 c. heavy cream
1/2 c. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
12 fresh shiitake mushrooms, sliced
1/2 c. freshly shelled peas
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Directions:
Preheat oven to 200 degrees. In a large skillet over medium heat, melt 4 tablespoons butter. Add corn and green onion and saute for about 1 minute.
Add 1/2 cup chicken stock, increase heat to medium high and reduce liquid quickly until mixture thickens. Add cream and stir occasionally, reducing liquid again until thick, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in cheese.
Transfer mixture to a food processor fitted with a metal blade and pulse once or twice (the kernels should be broken but not pureed smooth). Transfer mixture to an ovenproof baking dish, cover with aluminum foil and keep warm in oven.
In a medium skillet over high heat, melt remaining 4 tablespoons butter. Add mushrooms and saute for 1 minute. Add peas and remaining 1/2 cup chicken stock, reduce heat to medium and reduce liquid until it thickens, about 5 minutes. Fold mushroom mixture into corn, season with salt and pepper to taste and serve.
VELVETY CHILLED CORN SOUP
Serves: 6.
Note: From “The Bon Appetit Cookbook” by Barbara Fairchild (Wiley, $34.95).
6 ears sweet corn, husks and silks removed
6 c. low-sodium chicken broth, divided
3 shallots, chopped
1 onion, chopped
6 tbsp. creme fraiche or sour cream
1/4 c. minced English cucumber
2 tbsp. freshly chopped chives
Directions: Using a cleaver or heavy large knife, cut each ear of corn crosswise in half. Place corn in a heavy large pot. Add 5 cups chicken broth, shallots and onion. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until corn is very tender, about 25 minutes. Using tongs, transfer corn to a large bowl to cool; reserve broth. When cool, cut kernels off cobs. Return 4 cups corn kernels to broth. Working in batches, puree soup in blender until very smooth. Strain soup through a fine sieve set over a large bowl, pressing on solids with back of spoon; discard solids. Mix in enough additional chicken broth to thin soup to consistency of heavy cream. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate uncovered until cold, about 4 hours (can be prepared up to 1 day in advance; cover and keep refrigerated).
When ready to serve, ladle soup into 6 bowls. Top each with a dollop of creme fraiche (or sour cream). Sprinkle with cucumber and chives and serve.