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Tuesday, October 07, 1997     Page:

Sugar and heat make the sweet treat of caramel
   
Sugar is one of those natural substances that totally changes character
when it’s heated. Its normal granular texture melts into a glimmering liquid
(and when cooled, hardens into glass), its color darkens from white to tan to
dark brown, and its taste becomes less sweet and delicately smokyIts name even
changes…to caramel.
    These changes make it particularly fun to play with. Cooks can’t resist it;
witness Julia Child flinging wispy strands of liquid sugar over broom handles
in her kitchen to create a frosty effect for her Buche de Noel.
   
I haven’t made the leap to that level of involvement, but I do like to
experiment by making edible, decorative doodads or by tossing nuts with the
hot syrup.
   
Whenever I make either of the following desserts, I always prepare a little
extra caramel to fool around with. You should too. It does a soul good to give
free reign to whimsy and fantasy every now and again.
   
Just one note of caution; liquid sugar is unbelievably hot. Do not stick
your finger in it. (This was one of my first experiments.)
   
Anyway, back to the two recipes.
   
One is for creme caramel which is a favorite of mine. I have found that
most people are unacquainted with it and for that reason won’t select it from
a dessert menu, but when served at a party, guests come back for seconds. So I
hope you try it. It has the simplest of ingredients- eggs, milk and sugar- and
can be prepared and popped in the oven for 15-20 minutes.
   
The second recipe is a low-fat variation of a pudding cake. While it’s very
tasty and rich, it has only 2.6 grams of fat per serving. Both recipes employ
the technique of coating the baking pan with caramelized sugar which lends a
certain sophistication to even these homey desserts.
   
Creme Caramel
   
For the caramel:
   
1 cup granulated sugar
   
1/3 cup water
   
For the custard:
   
1 quart whole milk
   
6 large eggs
   
5 egg yolks
   
3/4 cup granulated sugar
   
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
   
Pinch of salt
   
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Select a deep, 8-cup baking dish.
   
2. Prepare the caramel as follows. In a heavy saucepan, combine the sugar
and water and stir well. Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium heat. Swirl
the pan a few times and check carefully to be sure all the sugar has
dissolved. Then cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and increase the heat.
Let the mixture boil for two to three minutes, then uncover and swirl the pan.
If the mixture is beginning to turn color, from clear to light tan, return it
to the heat for another minute or so. Then remove the pan from the heat and
swirl it a few times more. The mixture will continue to darken in color.
Immediately pour the mixture into the baking dish and tilt the dish to evenly
coat the sides halfway up the dish and the bottom of the pan. Set the dish
aside.
   
3. Prepare the custard as follows. In a saucepan, heat the milk until it
begins to steam and tiny bubbles form around the perimeter of the pan, but do
not allow it to boil. In a mixing bowl, combine the eggs and sugar by stirring
well. (Do not use a whisk as this will produce a froth which will sit on top
of the custard and interfere with its baking.) Gradually add the hot milk to
the egg mixture and stir, don’t whisk, until the sugar has dissolved and it’s
well combined. Add the vanilla and salt.
   
4. Pour the custard mixture into the caramel-coated dish. Place the baking
dish into a larger, shallow pan such as a roasting pan. Pour boiling water
into the roasting pan about halfway up the sides of the baking dish.
Carefully, place the pans into the oven and bake for 1 to 1 1/4 hour. The
custard is done when the edges turn slightly brown. Plunge a toothpick into
the custard. If it comes out clean, the custard is ready. The center should be
a little wobbly.
   
5. Remove the baking dish from the oven and let the custard sit for about
an hour. Then invert onto a plate. There will be a rush of thin caramel liquid
that will form a pool of sauce on the serving plate so be sure to select a
plate with a slight lip. Serve warm or at room temperature. Or allow the
custard to remain in the baking dish, cover the dish and refrigerate it until
ready to serve. Bring to room temperature before serving.
   
Apple Semolina Pudding Cake
   
(Adapted from Cooking Light, September 1997)
   
For the caramel:
   
1 cup granulated sugar
   
1/3 cup water
   
For the cake:
   
1-2 large tart apples, thinly sliced, but not peeled
   
Grated zest from 1 lemon
   
4 cups skim milk
   
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
   
3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon semolina flour (pasta flour)
   
Pinch of salt
   
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
   
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg, or more to taste
   
1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Select a six or eight cup baking dish
with tall sides, such as a souffle dish.
   
2. Prepare the caramel as described in the Creme Caramel recipe, and coat
the baking dish with the caramel. Place a single layer of sliced apple on the
bottom of the prepared baking dish and sprinkle the apples with the lemon
zest. Set the dish aside.
   
3. Combine the milk and 1/2 cup sugar in a large heavy saucepan; stir well.
Place the pan over medium heat and cook until tiny bubbles form around the
edge of the pan, but do not boil. Remove the pan from the heat, add the
vanilla. Let the milk stand for 10 minutes.
   
4. Then gradually add the flour and salt to the mixture, and place the pot
back over medium heat. Cook 10-12 minutes, stirring constantly with a whisk,
until thick and bubbly.
   
5. In a bowl, lightly beat the eggs and gradually add the hot milk mixture,
stirring constantly with a whisk. Mix in the nutmeg and carefully spoon the
mixture over the apples in the baking dish.
   
6. Bake for 45 minutes or until puffy and almost set. The center will
remain wobbly. Cool in the dish for 10 minutes. (The cake will deflate
slightly.) Run a knife around the sides of the baking dish and invert the cake
onto a plate. Serve warm or at room temperature. If preparing in advance, let
the baked cake come to room temperature in the baking dish, then cover and
refrigerate. Before serving, bring the cake to room temperature. Then place
the baking dish on the low heat of a burner, run a knife along the sides of
the dish and invert onto a serving plate.
   
Food Columnist Pat Greenfield’s column is published every other Tuesday.
She is owner and operator of a restaurant in Exeter. Write to her in care of
the Arts & Leisure Team, The Times Leader, 15 N. Main St., Wilkes-Barre, Pa.
18711-0250.
   
TIMES LEADER/FRED ADAMS
   
Caramel can add a saucy, sophistication to otherwise homespun desserts