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Friday, January 28, 2000     Page: 25

Take an old vacant building in the heart of the Poconos.
   
Add the expertise of a general contractor turned chef and his devoted
spouse.
    Mix in a limited but affordable menu with unusual offerings.
   
The result: The Frogtown Inn in Canadensis.
   
Owned and operated by Carol and Stan Zimmer, the Frogtown is in fact
operated as an inn. There are eight rooms for rent for those customers who
would prefer to bed down after enjoying one of the better meals to be found in
this vicinity.
   
The bare wood flooring and hewn wood beams combined with early American
antique furniture give one the sense of dining during a break from a session
of the Continental Congress. The tables are covered with flowered print
cloths, linen napkins and a single wax candle.
   
From appetizer to dessert, each offering has its own twist. A generous
serving of baked brie is coated with a chopped walnut crust and served with
sliced Granny apple and maple syrup. (We’re more familiar with baked brie
served with an orange brandy chutney.)
   
The half dozen classic escargots are the garlic lover’s delight, sprinkled
with fresh parsley and a hint of Pernod.
   
A crunchy seafood crepe is wrapped around a combination of sweet shrimp and
bay scallops and covered in a blush cream sauce. A diminutive tasty quail is
sauteed, then finished with lemon butter and parsley.
   
One of the absolutely best soups we’ve had anywhere was the smoked duck and
black bean gumbo, enhanced by a dollop of sour cream and chopped scallions.
The crock of baked French onion soup was enhanced by the addition of smoked
Gruyere cheese.
   
Speaking of duck, the first entree listed and described as the Inn’s
specialty is roast duckling. This juicy and flavorful semi-boneless fowl is
roasted crisp and presented with a blackberry brandy sauce.
   
The tender New Zealand rack of lamb was roasted with Dijon mustard and
rosemary-laden bread crumbs.
   
But the Cajun blackened prime rib was somewhat disappointing. While the
thick slice of beef was prepared medium rare as ordered, it was dry and
consequently missing the au jus flavor.
   
Seafood lovers will swoon over the poached haddock, offered as a special
during one of our visits. This sizable steak is prepared with oysters and a
red pepper cream sauce, and is absolutely delectable.
   
The house mixed green salad with julienne carrots, red cabbage, bean
sprouts and sesame seeds comes with a unique and perfectly blended ginger and
soy sauce dressing.
   
Saving room for dessert is a must, especially for the homemade caramel flan
with whipped cream or the rich, creamy cheese cake drizzled in raspberry
sauce.
   
On one very cold night recently, the dining room was somewhat chilly.
   
But the combination of a comfortable rustic setting, excellent service and
nearly flawless preparation makes a trip to the Frogtown Inn definitely
worthwhile.
   
The restaurant review is published in The Guide section every Friday. The
reviewer, who visits each restaurant twice, is unidentified to avoid the
possibility of preferential treatment.