A quick Irish Brown Bread, loaf pan and yeast not needed

I had a different recipe ready for this week, but on Tuesday MT decided to try some Corned Beef and Cabbage (a big success as far as I’m concerned, though the meat had more gristle than I like), inspiring me to try this Irish brown bread for St.Patrick’s Day.

It’s a “quick bread,” meaning it needs no proofing, because it uses baking soda for the leavening — which I suppose also means it’s a “soda bread.” It requires no rolling, no electric mixer, and very little kneading (about 30 seconds or so, otherwise the bread may be tougher than you want). And you can skip the bread pans, just shape it into a roundish loaf and bake in an iron skillet (my choice, pulling out the one that came with the house) or on a baking sheet. So, pretty simple.

It’s savory, not sweet, with only two tablespoons of sugar to four cups of flour, half of which is whole wheat — giving the brown color and a nuttier taste. It’s also a bit dense compared to most store-bought breads. All of which means reception may depend on the guests you serve, as the comments from our taste testers show.

I liked it enough to eat three slices shortly out of the oven. MT dubbed it “beautiful” when the loaf was whole and still warm. Then it went to the newsroom taste testers, accompanying MT’s corned beef and cabbage. This may be the first time we made separate dishes for the same day of tasting without turning it into a competition for taster approval (different pumpkin soups for one, different Brussels sprouts recipes for another)

“I like the bread an awful lot,” news editor Roger DuPuis said. “It’s got heft to it, and hearty’s a good word, too. It’s very hearty and satisfying. You can taste the wholesome nature.”

“I put butter on it,” Reporter Margaret Roarty said, “but it really doesn’t need butter.”

It doesn’t, but this is one bread I prefer bit more with some butter.

Bill O’Boyle (despite the Irish name) was less receptive. “I don’t want to insult anybody but I don’t think it has much flavor. I don’t care much for soda bread, either.”

I get that. If, like me, you didn’t grow up with soda bread at least occassionally on the table, I can see how it might be off-putting. I definitely acquired a taste for it, though.

MT used just one word when she tried a slice still warm from the oven: “Wonderful.” But after she took it into the newsroom she expanded, waxing a bit eloquent about her love of whole wheat baked goods.

“I think it’s a wonderfully satisfying quick bread, and knowing that it’s made with whole wheat puts an extra lilt in my laughter and jig in my step, even if I’m only Irish a few days out of the year.”

Dobru chut!

Irish Brown Bread (delish.com, Mary Rupp)

Cooking spray

2 cups (240 g.) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

2 cups (230 g.) whole wheat flour

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon kosher salt

3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cubed

1 large egg

1 ⅔ cup buttermilk

Heat oven to 425° and lightly grease a large cast-iron skillet with cooking spray (alternatively, line a large baking sheet with parchment).

In a large bowl, whisk all-purpose flour, whole wheat flour, granulated sugar, baking soda, and salt. Add butter and, using your hands, mix until pea-sized and some slightly larger pieces form.

In a small bowl, whisk egg and buttermilk. Make a well in center of flour mixture. Add egg mixture to well and, starting from the center, mix with a wooden spoon until dough is too stiff to stir.

Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface. With floured hands, form dough into a ball as best you can, then knead until no dry streaks remain, about 30 seconds. Don’t overwork or bread will turn out tough.

Transfer dough to prepared skillet or baking sheet. Using a very sharp knife, score a 1/2”-deep X on top.

Bake bread 15 minutes, then reduce oven temperature to 400°. Continue to bake until bread is golden brown and bottom sounds hollow when tapped, 30 to 35 minutes more.

Let cool 5 to 10 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack. Serve warm, at room temperature, or toasted.