Around Town: Celebrating St. Michael’s Day in Mexico

We woke up to roosters crowing, a horse outside the window and a town alive with spirit and excitement.

Oscar (my partner) and I spent last weekend at his family homestead in Atlacahualoya, Morelos, Mexico — a small town south of Mexico City. We were there to celebrate Saint Michael’s Day — a beautiful feast commemorating the town’s patron saint with church offerings and services, a carnival, fireworks, flowers, food and dance.

It was a multi-day affair that was both inspiring and magical to me. Oscar told me in the past what a special day it was for his family and neighbors growing up, but witnessing it myself left me speechless. I didn’t say too much throughout the weekend (although I did test out my practiced phrases greeting those around me and making light conversation), because I was truly taking in the weekend experience.

Preparations began days in advance, but our participation started Saturday with a mariachi band and party outdoors at Oscar’s childhood home. Cousins, friends and neighbors came to reminisce, catch up and kick off the celebration. Kudos to Oscar’s parents for planning.

Even though he and his brother were the only people I could have a full conversation with, I felt a connection with the other party guests. I felt their welcoming and inclusive energy. I also comprehended much more than I did when I visited last year, as I’ve been actively paying attention and practicing Spanish.

The band, along with the party guests, eventually paraded the few blocks to the town church, which is in the center of the community activity.

The group carried flowers and candles. I started off helping Oscar’s dad, Roman, set off fireworks as we walked, then helped Oscar’s mom, Estela, with flowers in the front of the line. The event was live-streamed on Facebook for those who couldn’t make it, like other sweet family members (Yasmin, Maricela and Claudia) who grew up there and love to keep up with the town’s special days.

I felt so proud to be included in such an important event. The townspeople take it seriously, and I felt the power of Saint Michael as we stood in church, after parting with our offerings at the altar.

After our turn was over, we sat outside the church and watched the many other families and groups proceed in with their offerings. All of this was magnificently lit by candles.

What followed was fun and games, literally. We took a Ferris wheel ride, ate tortas and ice cream, and watched as children and adults alike danced in front of the town stage.

I fell asleep very content that evening. I saw how much joy the day brought to Oscar’s family.

The next day, Sunday, began with breakfast: coffee (café) and sweet bread (pan dulce).

We spent time at church and then with more family as everyone prepared for the evening activities where men carried a lighted Saint Michael sculpture through the streets. It was a breathtaking sight. The community lined the streets to honor their hero.

Once Saint Michael arrived at the church, grand fireworks were set off in the town center. There were huge displays of beauty, grandeur and celebration. It didn’t matter that there was some light rain – the magnitude of the evening far outweighed anything else.

In addition to Saint Michael’s Day, another commemoration was occurring: the next day (Monday) the state of Morelos had a holiday. It was the birthday of Father Jose Maria Morelos y Pavin (born 1765), one of the founding fathers of the nation.

The day was marked with a parade in another nearby town, Quebrantandero. Schools were closed and children performed with dance and instruments. It was fun to wave to them and witness their costumes. There was so much detail in their various outfits, hair fixtures and accessories.

We were invited to dinner at a home following the parade. This was the third or fourth home we were invited into throughout the days of celebration, and each family was gracious, kind and excited to share their food and traditions.

When all was said and done, I spent time thinking about how remarkable it was to see full towns and communities come together. While I’m sure people have their differences like in any town, these were days that brought out the best in people. There were smiles, tears, laughter and hugs. Lots of hugs and affection.

We also had the pleasure of exploring some other towns and cities — Axochiapan (a city with a quaint market for breakfast and gifts), Yecapitxla (known for its cecina, i.e. salt-cured beef), Cuernavaca (Morelos state capitol), Puebla (another main city where friends treated us to food, wine and laughs) and Jantetelco. At the latter, we hiked a mountain, saw a pyramid and smiled at bulls and cattle closeby.

In Jantetelco, we visited a nature area called Chalcatzingo, which dates back to 1600 B.C. and was coined “the revered site of the sacred water.”

The site is well known in central Mexico for its extensive array of Olmec-style monumental art and iconography.

We hiked to the top of the Chalcatzingo mountain to get a bird’s-eye view of the many monuments and land beneath us. It was breathtaking.

We also spent ample amount of time in the town of Jonacatepec — home to many of Oscar’s maternal family members who — like last year — were more than welcoming to us. We spent nights gathered around tables enjoying glorious dinners and days at the center of town, visiting or just relaxing.

I considered myself extremely fortunate to once again have this inside view of what true Mexican life is like.

It’s an exquisite culture centered around community, gatherings, neighbors and family.

I remain in awe of Oscar’s commitment to his roots and heritage. One of the best parts of our relationship is his willingness to share it with me and take me along on these adventures. (I am also very thankful for his superb translating skills).

Gracias to all who so kindly welcomed us and were generous with their time. Perhaps “generous” is the best word to describe my feeling of Mexico. The people are giving, kind and happy to say “Bienvenido.”